Thursday, April 26, 2012

Amazing Moments


Photo from a writing workshop in L'Acul du Nord (a few days ago)
So, I have these amazing days. Even my ordinary days have amazing moments. It's not just that I love my job, although I do work with wonderful people who are doing all they can do to transform their communities. But I also live in a place of amazing beauty and laughter and dignity and tragedy.

My days are very full and I do not take the time to jot down the special moments. I then forget them. Over the past few weeks I've been translating for a writing workshop and I've been reflecting on what a loss it is to not record these moments. Here's a slice from today:

Today we were in Bas Duty for our sixth writing workshop. The participants were a mixture of trainers, committee members, and house-to-house volunteers from the Community Health Evangelism programs in Bas Duty and its neighbor, Haut Duty. As usual, the work that the participants did was remarkable, both in content and style. Amelina, a trainer, wrote about a trip she took to neighboring Dominican Republic and her thoughts on the two countries. She wrote, “Our country is charged/loaded with riches, but all those riches turn into nothing.” St. Hiloine Platiny commented on how important it was to have written stories, not just oral stories. “If we do not remember where we've come from, we cannot have a future tomorrow.”

During the training I was reminded that my job description includes the need to be physically strong. The site only had a semi-latrine -- a hole low on the back wall extending down to the sloping floor – for men to urinate. It was a huge leap to get up to the latrine. One reached the latrine only after navigating a slippery, muddy path. Thankfully they had loaned us a bucket for the women to use. There were lots of mosquitoes, and I'd only thought to put repellent on my lower legs, not on my behind. Itchy.

We had to work to overcome the noise from the soccer game during the second half of the workshop -- the television for the community was right next door to the building in which we were meeting. There were a lot of people watching the game since Real Madrid, a favorite team, was playing. Some kids lounged in the branches of a mango tree to better see the TV.

As at the conclusion of the other trainings, after several of the participants commented on how much they enjoyed the training and the effort of the facilitators, then it was our job to thank the participants for their time and thank the trainers for their preparations. Then the trainers and the committee presidents spoke. (I'm very please that I'm finally getting better at this sort of thing – I used to forget to do it but now these formalities come naturally.) The first part of the ride home was in the Hamilton's truck, with four extra passengers who were at our training. Hitching a ride is called a wou lib, or “free wheel.”

The second part of the trip home was in a taptap, a small pickup that has the bed fitted with benches and a roof. It's only 10 gourds, or 25 cents, for the 30- to 60-minute ride. I love riding in taptaps. Yes, it's true, the roofs aren't exactly rainproof. And everyone is squished in, and one's head hits the roof or other body parts smash painfully into things due to the bumpy roads. But, as my supervisor once remarked, during the short time of the ride a small community is formed. People discuss politics, yell at other passengers for littering, provide laps for other people's children.

Traveling here is never boring. Today, as we started out along National Highway #1, a man was leading seven cows home. They were tied to walk all seven abreast, taking up most of the road. Then we passed a funeral procession – people slowly marching in front of and behind the hearse. This procession included a choir that was singing beautifully.

Across from me was seated an older woman, wearing a mauve scrub top with the logo of an American homehealth agency and a leopard print skirt. After we passed the procession she started singing the same song that we'd heard from the choir. After a minute my co-worker, the other end of the taptap, said, “You'll make me cry.” He said it several times, albeit with a smile on his face, but she didn't stop. Someone else said, “Madam, maybe he just had someone die, he says you'll make him cry.” She kept singing the rest of the trip, different hymns in Kreyol and French.

Soon we see people streaming down the street, some laughing and shouting and running. Someone in the taptap says, “The soccer game must be over.”

I get off at the end of the line in downtown Cap Haitien. I start to walk home since it is only 30-some short blocks. I love walking, there is so much to see. As usual, I pass by the Boy Chill Barbershop, its doors painted with combs, a hairdryer, a razor, and also painted heads of men with very neat haircuts and trimmed beards.

I love living here.